In today’s FleaMail blog we will go over the basics of heartworm. What it is, how to prevent it and what to do if you suspect your pet has been infected.

 What is heartworm?

Heartworm, or dirofilaria immitis, is a parasitic worm that lives in the blood vessels of your pet. Like their heart, arteries and lungs where they feed on blood and can grow up to 12 inches long! The heartworm’s life cycle starts with an infected mosquito biting a dog or cat and then introducing larvae into their bodies via the mosquito’s saliva. There are some other common ways pets contract heartworm besides mosquitoes. They include heartworm larvae in the rain, coming into contact with other infected pets or even fleas that carry heartworms.

Heartworm larvae can stay in a pet’s body for up to a year before reaching adulthood and moving on to the heart where they will reside, mate and produce more heartworm larvae. Even though cases are far more common on the east coast, the best way to think about heartworm is, “if you have ever seen a mosquito where you live, your pet is at risk of heartworm.”

What can it do to my pet?

Heartworm is very serious business! It can cause severe damage or even death if not treated in time. Some of the problems heartworms may cause are; heart disease, severe lung disease, potential organ damage, fluid build-up around the abdomen (peritonitis) and death if left untreated. Initially, you’re going to see not much, which is a problem because there’s a bit of lead time between the infection and an owner noticing the dogs got a problem; it can even be up to a couple of years. All the while this crawly bugger is doing damage to your pet.

Difference between cats and dogs.

While primarily affecting dogs it is now quite common in Australian cats too. However, how they will affect your pet is very different.
Dogs –  The dog is what’s called a natural host for heartworms, meaning the entire life cycle is undertaken in a dog. If untreated, their numbers can increase, and dogs have been known to harbor several hundred worms in their bodies. Heartworm disease causes lasting damage to the heart, lungs and arteries, and can affect the dog’s health and quality of life long after the parasites are gone. For this reason, prevention is by far the best option, and treatment—when needed—should be administered as early in the course of the disease as possible.

Cats

Heartworm disease in cats is not the same as dogs. The cat is an atypical host for heartworms, and most worms in cats do not survive to the adult stage. Cats with adult heartworms typically have just one to three worms, and many cats affected by heartworms have no adults. While this means heartworm disease often goes undiagnosed in cats, it’s important to understand that even immature worms cause real damage in the form of a condition known as heartworm associated respiratory disease (HARD). Moreover, the medication used to treat heartworm infections in dogs cannot be used in cats, so prevention is the only means of protecting cats from the effects of heartworm disease so is wildly important.

What should I look out for?

Signs of heartworm disease in dogs may include a mild persistent cough, reluctance to exercise, fatigue after moderate activity, decreased appetite, and weight loss. For cats it’s very hard to see any signs of heartworm infection on the outside, blood is causing havoc internally.

As heartworm disease progresses, pets may develop heart failure and the appearance of a swollen belly due to excess fluid in the abdomen. Dogs with large numbers of heartworms can develop a sudden blockages of blood flow within the heart leading to a life-threatening form of cardiovascular collapse. This is called caval syndrome, and is marked by a sudden onset of laboured breathing, pale gums, and dark bloody or coffee-coloured urine. Without prompt surgical removal of the heartworm blockage, few dogs survive.

So, what should you do if you suspect your pet is suffering from heartworm?

There are quick and easy heartworm tests you can have your veterinarian run. They do this by taking a blood sample and checking it for heartworm antibodies. As I’m sure you can tell (or know) these tests aren’t always cheap. The best (and cheapest) way to fight heartworm is with preventative medications.

Prevention is key!

The takeaways from all of this?

 1. Cats, once infected with heartworm, unfortunately cannot be cured as the medication we use to kill adult heartworm is poisonous to cats. 2. Heartworm treatment for a dog is incredibly expensive, very long-term (generally daily medical treatments for months) and, for dogs with adult heartworm, surgical intervention is generally needed. This is why prevention for heartworm is exceedingly important.

As we know parasites are always around, regardless of the season, which is why it’s important to keep your pet on regular heartworm prevention medications throughout the year. The best way to prevent heartworm is by giving your pet regular preventative treatments. This can be done at a vet clinic where they will administer heartworm prevention medication as an injection, heartworm control spot-ons or chews.

This is done to prevent heartworms from developing in your pet’s system. Thankfully we can handle all this for you at FleaMail. We offer heartworm prevention in a monthly chew form for dogs and a spot on for cats, which is easy to give to your furry friend and allows you one less thing to worry about when it comes to your pet’s health!

There may be a lot of information to digest in this blog, but it’s important to know because heartworm is not something you want your pet to get.

FleaMail offers your pets monthly protection from fleas, ticks and worms shipped straight to your door so you never forget! You can find information about our service through our website FleaMail.com.au. Or contact us directly through Facebook, Instagram or email us at info@fleamail.com.au.

Despite these threats, our knowledge of Australian ticks and tick-borne diseases is actually in its infancy.

Paralysis tick

Even though there are many species, Australia has (as it always does) one particular species of tick that is 100 times worse than any of the others.
The paralysis tick, Ixodes holocyclus, is a species of tick that lives on the East Coast of Australia, from the tip of North Qld all the way down around to Geelong. Side note – These paralysis tick maps you find on Google are actually very old, very outdated and in no way correct. Now, thanks to climate change and urban spread, paralysis ticks have even been found affecting dogs ,cats and kids in Tasmania.  As the name states, this species of tick secretes a toxin in its saliva that causes muscle paralysis in mammals which can lead to respiratory arrest and eventually, death.

They grow from an egg to a larva (about 1mm long and brown) and then to a nymph (about 2mm long and pale brown). They also don’t fly or jump but crawl up grass or twigs then drop onto passing animals or humans, attaching themselves to the soft skin to feed on blood to grow. Once they have attached, they inject a chemical to stop the blood clotting so they can feed for days.

What are the signs of Paralysis Tick envenomation?

One of the first things an owner will notice is a change to their pet’s vocalisation (meow or bark), especially in dogs. The tick’s venom generally affects the vocal chords which can make the pet “sound funny” (kinda like when your voice broke as you were growing up). Another tell-tale sign (no pun intended) is a limp or lax tail.  If you notice any of these signs in your pet, it’s best to get them to a vet immediately to have a thorough check and to maybe administer antiserum.

What can I do to reduce risk?

Two things that I think are really important to talk about. One, not everybody lives in a paralysis tick zone and has to have tick protection and even those on preventatives should still check their dog or cat for ticks daily, especially if they are outside pets. Don’t worry though, a tick check is very simple, only takes about 1 minute and you don’t need any special devices to find them. It’s basically a glorified pat so your pet will generally be happy to oblige.

When your pet has returned from a walk or simply been outside, is the best time to check them over. It’s best to start at one end and work your way down so you don’t miss anything.   Simply running your hands all over your pet (the glorified pat) and feeling for any small lumps or bumps is the easiest way to start. Ticks tend to be found around the head, neck, ears, underarms, groin and feet. These places are generally a little damper and warmer so ticks love them. Make sure you check inside the ears as well as between the toes. Daily grooming with a good brush can also help to remove any ticks from your pet’s fur as well.

By following these simple steps you can have your dog or cat live happier, healthier lives. All day, every day!

One way for you to protect your pet is to make sure they are treated all year round. FleaMail will help you to keep up to date on your pets treatments each month with zero hassle. Get FleaMail today! Click the link below for more!

Now these products will definitely take care of the fleas ON your dog or cat but what a lot of people don’t understand is that 95% of fleas live in the environment your pet frequents, not on your best mate. Most of these actually live in the dirt surrounding your house or in your carpets.

There are a huge range of flea treatments available these days, but most infestations spread beyond the help of topical treatments, and chews don’t really have any environmental effects at all.

You can treat your pet for fleas religiously, but dogs and cats with flea sensitivity or FAD unfortunately won’t respond perfectly to treatments unless you also combine them with environmental controls. This is primarily because a lot of the products actually need a parasite to bite your pet to kill them.

For indoors, a professional flea bomb will include ingredients to provide fast knockdown of adult fleas and larvae. Ingredients to “break the breeding cycle” to provide long lasting protection against future infestations. 

If your companion spends a good deal of time outdoors, it’s important to treat these areas to manage fleas and other pests. The good news is these preventative steps generally only need to be done once or maybe twice a year.

When making a list of steps, you should address both the fur-kids indoor AND outdoor flea or tick problem, and account for which areas probably need treating. These should include any spot where your pet sleeps, such as their bed, the kennel, carport, and where they almost definitely like to nap, under the house or deck. 

Other areas to be treated are where fleas breed and hibernate which is mainly; gardens, shrubs, and mulched areas especially anywhere it’s sandy. To rid these areas of fleas, many pet owners use pyrethroid sprays famous for killing fleas and ticks fast. These can be applied through a sprayer attached to a hose, allowing rapid treatment of large areas, or can be diluted and applied with a watering can on smaller spaces.

Although pyrethroids are chemical imitations of naturally occurring compounds that incapacitate an insect nervous systems, not all pet owners are comfortable spraying them in their yards.  One thing you must definitely know is that these pyrethroids are can be very poisonous to cats. Even applying a topical pyrethroid, like Frontline, to your dog can actually make your cat very, very sick if they live in the same house. Especially if they ever sleep together. It’s one of the main reasons why FleaMail doesn’t use any products that contain these pyrethrin based compounds.

There are however quite a few alternatives. Desiccants are naturally occurring substances that pull water from fleas, causing them to dry up and die, quite quickly.

Diatomaceous earth, silica gel, and sodium borate are all desiccants that can be applied in your yard to control fleas and other pests.

Another natural solution to outdoor flea infestations are beneficial nematodes. These microscopic round worms which are available at many garden centers, kill pests and other insects by entering the body and releasing a bacteria that kills fleas quickly.

While they can be highly effective in some situations, these worms have a limited area and season of usefulness, as they die in temperatures above 35 degrees and below 7 degrees. They are also sensitive to light and drought. Cedar wood chips are another natural alternative to fight fleas, as fleas are repelled by it’s scent but to you, me and Rover it smells kinda nice. Sprinkle chips in shady areas, such as under the porch, outdoor furniture and under your dog’s bedding.

Once your pest problem is under control, you can drop regular maintenance to every 6-12 months. And of course, continue using your regular flea treatments, like FleaMail, on all of your pets, all year round. This way you can make sure that your furry best friend is living their best life.

What are Essential Oils?

Essential oils are manufactured from highly concentrated plant or chemical compounds, and are popular in aromatherapy, alternative medicine and air-fresheners. There are also hundreds of types, each with their own unique physical properties. Essential can be harmful to your pet if not used correctly. Exposure to essential oils can occur via ingestion (either by consuming the oils directly or through grooming themselves), skin exposure or inhalation.

People, unfortunately, believe the use of these “natural” essential oils helps improve their personal and their pet’s health and happiness. The perceived health benefits of essential oils has convinced some pet parents to try a holistic, “natural” approach to help with a wide variety of medical conditions, from anxiety and skin problems to flea and tick prevention.

Natural flea and tick treatments that use essential oils, to put it plainly, just don’t work. With a lack of data supporting the efficacy of these products, pet parents may be putting their pets at major risk of parasite related diseases.

You may not also know, that while your essential oil diffuser makes your home smell amazing, Inhaling diffused oils is known to cause negative respiratory effects in both humans as well as pets, especially if used in a small space and/or for an extended period of time. In fact ,for your pet, they are possibly one of the most dangerous items you can have in your home and can be likened to a miniature volcano of death…

Not to mention if your pet has existing respiratory conditions such as asthma or bronchitis, they are going to be at greater risk of developing respiratory distress. Even more so if they are cats! In clinic, I have personally had numerous admissions to emergency that were purely essential oil related.

Dogs and Essential Oils

For dogs, we can say same as to the dangers of essential oils as they also lack some these Glucuronidation enzymes too. Placing drops of nice-smelling oils, such as lavender, on your dog’s bed may help calm them (it probably won’t), or it may just cause further stress (it almost definitely will). Oils and new stimulus can lead to changes in a dog’s behaviour, adverse nervous effects and respiratory problems, especially for brachiocephalic (flat nosed) dogs such as Pugs, Frenchies, Staffys, boxers, etc.

Oils that are particularly toxic to dogs include:

So what can we deduce from these two lists? When it comes to essential oils just don’t put any on, around or near your pets. Simple. No one carries this list around with them (myself included) that’s for sure and this is in no way a full list of everything that can affect your pets.

So as a blanket response, I just use one rule, “don’t put any form of essential oil on or near your pet.”

What should I look out for?

The signs of essential oil poisoning will depend on the type of oil, the quantity, and the way your pet is exposed. A good rule of thumb as a pet owner is to stay alert if you see any changes of behaviour in your animal.

There are several common signs your pet may display if they have may have been poisoned, these include:

In conclusion, just don’t! But if you MUST use essential oils, only do so with a vet’s approval. Our view on essential oils and animals is that they’re likely to do more harm than good, so better to be safe than sorry. To avoid poisoning, keep these oils out of reach of your pets. Store them in secure containers that your dog or cat cannot get to. And, again, ask your vet before you use ANY kind of oil in any capacity.

Team FleaMail.

Don’t have time to read? Listen to Dr. Evan Shaw talk on this blog!

1. Coats and Jackets

Nothing’s as cute as a pug in a hoodie or a kitten in a beanie either. However clothing for our pets isn’t just fashionable, it’s totally functional, especially for those little ones with shorter coats.

There are so many options nowadays when it comes to coats, hats and jackets for our little or even big fur-family members. Follow the Swans? You can pick up the jersey online. Got a comical or political statement you live by (Pug Life)? There’s at least 20 lines of accessories available that can fulfil the fashionista in even the most discerning of Dashies!

But before I go full fur-crazy, I have some advice to make sure your little floof, is a comfy floof. Firstly, always make sure that your pet has ample space to breathe. You’d be surprised how many pups have their jackets on a bit tight… Also, make sure the coat itself can breathe and isn’t made from synthetic materials. Even on a cool day, a doggie in a faux-leather jacket can get really uncomfortable, especially if they are in the sun. Remember that pups can’t sweat either so watch the panting for signs you pooch might need a cool down. Also make sure there are no dangling cords or buttons that can be easily swallowed or cause constriction.

2. Cut the cut and hang up the hose.

First of all let’s get something straight about your pet’s coat. A pet’s coat is NOTHING like a jumper or parker, especially a dog’s. The best way to think of it is that a dog’s coat works far more like the insulation on your favourite esky. It not only keeps them warm in winter but also cool in summer.  I’m going to do a blog on just how K9 and Feline thermoregulation works next time but in short, how a pet’s coat works is incredibly different to what human presume. Shaving their fur (even in summer) can have a really negative effect on their well-being as it’s used to regulate their temperature. If you do need to trim or groom your pet, limit the trim to the feet and muzzle and remember to bath them indoors with warm water. Blow dry them dry (or have a super-extended towel wrestle!) before letting them back outside again. We all know the struggle of having to get out of the shower first thing in the morning so let’s make sure everyone’s all dry, warm and snuggly.

3. Provide warm and dry shelter for your pet over winter

If you can, keeping your little buddies inside over the winter period is definitely ideal, however, it is understandable if your dog is primarily an outdoor pet that changing their sleeping habits can be a bit tricky.  A kennel or box filled with blankets for your pooch will be welcomed when the frosty mornings hit and having a toasty bed under their own little roof to help escape the chill will make them super happy. As for cats, they should never be let out at night as, on average, they kill around 20 native Australian animals each night in mice, lizards and other furries, accounting for around 1 billion natives dying each year due to cats.

5. For the Oldies

For those of us that aren’t such spring chickens any more we have to keep a special eye out for them. With a range of inflammatory and arthritic conditions affecting older pets, active warming or medications becomes more necessary when it’s colder. Elderly pets suffer during the colder weather and may benefit from a visit to your local vet for a check-up if they are getting around a bit slower. A lot of medical conditions are exacerbated by the cold as it affects circulation, blood pressure and exercise.

I hope that with these tips, all our little buddies are toasty and dry this winter and remember one of the best ways to keep your pets (and you) warm is a great big cuddle in bed. So we say “get huggin”!!

Dr Evan knew there must be a better way to ensure pet owners give their pets treatments on time and founded FleaMail. He now has a team of Vet nurses & protects thousands of Aussie pets across the country!

Join FleaMail today!

Don’t have time to read? Listen to Dr. Evan Shaw talk on this blog!

Combatting the puppy blues.

You’re tired, you’re refreshing the mop bucket during toilet training ad nauseam and the teeth marks on your arm has you wondering, “was my puppy somehow crossed with a shark?”

It’s disappointing, upsetting, frustrating, and you might even be feeling like getting your puppy was a terrible idea. Don’t panic! It’s also normal!

Why is it normal? Because you are dealing with a puppy, the equivalent of a toddler in the terrible-two phase… Except you can’t find your left shoe because it’s being chewed on (even though you bought about 300 dog toys to amuse them).

If this sounds like you, here are a few tips to help you get through it.

Take a Break

Try to incorporate several breaks into your day. It can get difficult to be attentive, patient, and upbeat about integrating your puppy into your life all the time. Taking care of yourself is critical, and that includes allowing yourself to take a break. Whether it’s a 15 minute shower while your puppy is in their crate, a nap while someone else watches over them, or a full day while your dog is in day-care, make time for breaks!

Don’t be hard on yourself

Trust us when we say, you are not alone here. Puppies need attention, until they are at least one or two years of age. They have excessive amounts of energy and need plenty of play time, cuddles and love.

Look at it this way, your puppy has bonded with you, and that is adorable AF, he wants to be around you every waking moment.

Dealing with the puppy blues can be challenging, and when you’re waking up at 3:00am to calm your puppy you may feel overwhelmed… But on the other side of puppy blues comes a rewarding experience that provides you and your new furry friend with a life-long companion.

Remember that the most important thing for your puppy’s long term development is patience, proper training and care. We wish you the best in your experience as a new puppy owner, and promise you a rewarding relationship moving forward. 

Let FleaMail be your puppy’s treatment companion so you can keep them up to date with their parasite prevention. This way you can focus on all the love and cuddles you’ll be sharing. Sign up today for just $10 and see how convenient FleaMail can be for you and your puppy.

Already have a four-legged member of the family? Share this post with your friends who are thinking about getting a puppy and help them make the right decision for their family!

Dr Evan Shaw