Travelling With Your Cat or Dog in Australia, a Vets Guide.

Travelling With Your Cat or Dog in Australia, a Vets Guide.

Us Aussie pet owners are passionate folk, in fact 98% of us consider our pets as “part of the family” – so it’s no wonder we take them on holidays with us.

With the explosion of Australian dog-friendly accommodation, off-leash parks and beaches, day trips are becoming common outings. And as travelling with pets becomes more common, we’re also travelling further with them.

For a first time holidayer (or even a seasoned tripper) there are a few things you should do to prepare your fur-buddy for a trip.

Is it your first time?

There are very few pets out there who just get in the car for the first time and not throw up, pee or poo – or in some cases, attempt a jump out the window.

Like people, it’s not just being a “new experience”, pets can have anxiety issues or just straight up car-sickness too.

So if it’s your first time, be sure to start with a super short ride to the local park, then build up to a day trip before doing any real serious travel.

The key is consistency, the less “new” things that happen, the less stressed they’ll get – which leads to the next point.

Restraining your pet in Australia.

By law in Australia, you MUST have your pet restrained in a moving vehicle. Whether it be a crate, a harness or properly restrained in the back of a ute for example. Gone are the days of your dog jumping in the passenger seat.

While there is no law in regards to seat belts specifically, as a Vet, I’ve seen what happens when an un-belted pet is in an accident. Around 5000 dogs a year in Australia are injured or killed from falling from a moving vehicle, according to RSPCA stats.

The RSPCA can also issue fines under “The Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Act”. If an unrestrained animal is injured, you could face up to 6 months jail and $5,500 in fines.

So “click-clack, front and back” (including the crate if you’re using one). Most pet stores sell harnesses that you simply slide a belt through and fasten as normal.

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“What” to take on holidays with your pets?


1. Make a pet travel bag. 

Like kids, the more familiar a pet is with their environment, the less stress. A pet travel bag makes life easy – but be sure to pack their everyday stuff that they know.

Leashes, toys, bowls, jackets, kitty litter, food and medications all in one place means less time looking for things – you can check at a glance.

Most importantly, being plenty of food and water for the whole stay. Getting to a new destination and finding out they don’t have your pet’s regular food can be a problem. 

2. Medications and parasite-preventatives.

Your holiday destination may have different nasties to home, and your current protection regime may not cover everything you need. A good example is people travelling to coastal towns and not having paralysis tick prevention, simply because you live inland or a non-paralysis tick area.

Across is a map of where Paralysis ticks are in Australia (covered by all canine FleaMail plans), but call your Vet quickly as there may be other parasites to consider for your particular pet.

3. Plan your travel route around pee stops.

Knowing your route matters, like where dog parks and rest stops are along the way. Your pup needs a break about once an hour to stretch, have a drink and relax a little – even for 5 minutes. So knowing where there are a few stops along the way makes life a lot easier.

Pets also have much smaller bladders than people, and many have faster metabolisms. While a person can “hold it” while travelling for long distances, cats and dogs often cannot. Remember to stop!

And NEVER leave them alone at a campsite or in the car, even for 5 minutes. Dogs and cats can overheat (or worse) in no time, and get nervous in a new environment without you around.

Your Aussie Pet Travel Checklist:

After you feel your pet is comfortable on short trips, and you’re ready to venture a bit further (with your pet travel bag). Simply follow this pet checklist – and be sure to stop every hour or so for them while driving so they can answer nature’s call!

  • Food, enough for the whole stay
  • Water and familiar bowls
  • Familiar blankets
  • Familiar toys
  • Medications and Preventatives
  • Litter box, litter or poop bags
  • Brushes and grooming supplies
  • Car harnesses and tracking / council tags
  • Spare leads and collars if you have them

 … Happy adventures!! 

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What ingredients can you use to cook dog food? Here’s a Vet’s guide!

What ingredients can you use to cook dog food? Here’s a Vet’s guide!

Imagine having to eat the same thing, day in and day out – it’d get pretty boring right?

Or eating food that could be doing you damage, because dog food from a supermarket (Coles, Woolies, Aldi) is basically McDonald’s, plain and simple. It’s full of salt, poor quality meat, high in fat, high sugar, vast amounts of preservatives and additives – as well as the dry food containing up to 20% ash. Yes, you read that right, ASH. 

Cooking your dog’s meals can do wonders for their health, so let’s head to the kitchen with a Vet’s guidance!

The two BIG rules!

 Above all else, there’s 2 dog food rules:

Rule A: DOGS ARE NOT LITTLE PEOPLE. Dogs have very different physiology compared to humans and therefore need a specific diet.

Rule B: DOG FOOD NEEDS TO BE BALANCED. Each meal should include all of their nutritional needs, which we’ll jump into next!

What nutrients do you need?

For the right balance of macronutrients, your dog’s meal should follow the below guide:

1) 50% vegetables for carbohydrates and fibre.
2) 40% lean meat and offal for protein.
3) 10% fats and oils.

Personally, I try to avoid grains as they’re usually high in calories – and grains are by far the most common source of allergies in pets – but adding some whole grains or seeds can be beneficial if you use just a single unprocessed grain like brown rice, whole corn or flax seeds.

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Okay, now your dog food shopping list!


1. Vegetables (50% of ingredients) 

Vegetables are the key to mixing up your dog’s flavours and food, by using different vegetables you can be assured that your pet is going to be getting a whole range of amino acids, complex carbohydrates, vitamins, minerals and fibre.

Using as many colours as possible is a good rule of thumb for a good vegetable dietary profile. A bag of mixed frozen vegetables is super cheap now-days and can be given to your dog “raw” as well.

But remember, GARLIC, ONIONS and GRAPES are toxic to dogs – so never use them in their food.

2. Meat and offal (40% of ingredients) 

Lean meats and Offal are the building block of life, so for a growing pup or a high energy dog – a good source of high-quality protein is important. Using lean cuts of meat or mince (like chicken or turkey) is best. If you want to spoil your pooch with some steak, go for it, just be sure to trim the fat!

Dogs need 10 essential amino acids that primarily come from meats and protein rich legumes. By using offal, especially liver, heart and kidneys you can get more of these as well as extra nutrients like iron, B vitamins and zinc.

Just make sure the meat is ALWAYS cooked (we’ll cover this later – but raw can be quite dangerous).

3. Fats (10% of ingredients)

Fats help every cell in a dog’s body – and healthy cell membranes are the foundation of good health. Dietary fats are also required for the absorption of vitamins A, D, E, and K which are all essential for good health and immunity. Dogs also cannot make poly unsaturated fats so these must be added to your dog’s food as well.

Some of the best fat profiles are a mix of two different types. 2/3 animal fat (chicken or pork is best) 1/3 seed oil (safflower oil or any oil high in polyunsaturated fats). Another great tip is to add ¼ of a tin of sardines in oil to your dog’s diet each night as well.

Having all the right fats will also help your dog’s coat, and skin stays shiny and super healthy.

The power of fresh water!

Additional to cooking your pet’s food, never underestimate the power of clean water – and water during meal time is essential to get the stomach and intestines running optimally and help maintain digestion.

Clean water, daily, in multiple bowls around the house/property will help your dog get all the fluids they need.

The raw diet ….problem.

We have one rule at our clinic, “no raw food, ever”. By raw food, we are referring to raw meat and eggs, not raw vegetables, grains or fruit. Although there seems to be a big online push for “raw” diets, it’s essential you know the risks.

Because it’s not actually the digestion of raw food, but the campylobacter and salmonella that run RIFE through raw meats and eggs when not cooked or stored in the right way. Raw food kills hundreds of pets each year all around Australia.

Just because a dog used to eat raw food in the “wild” doesn’t mean that it’s better for them – in fact, wild dogs live to only 5-7 years of age on average – something to consider if you currently feed your dog raw.

Raw food is too risky, and so are bones. But we’ll address this in another Blog article so you can make informed decisions.

 …. So for now, happy cooking – and enjoy the licks after your pup has devoured one of your delicious home cooked meals!!

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The Best Flea Treatments For Aussie Dogs – Our Vets Discuss.

The Best Flea Treatments For Aussie Dogs – Our Vets Discuss.

Did you know an adult female Flea can lay up to 50 eggs per day?

You read that right – 50 eggs a day!

And from egg to adult, Fleas can mature in a matter of weeks in the right conditions. So if your dog or cat is itchy, read on!

This article could prevent your home from turning into a flea circus. Full disclaimer: Our Vets run www.fleamail.com.au, Flea, Tick & Worming made easy for Aussies. However, we’re not backed by any pharma companies. We simply use the best.

What are Fleas anyway?

Fleas are small, wingless parasites that survive by feeding on the blood of cats, dogs, and humans. Because they feed on warm-blooded animals, Fleas are extremely good at surviving all year-round, from our harshest Aussie summers to our coldest winters.

A Flea’s entire body is made to eat, with a head that’s encompassed by sharp spikes, and with a mouth that’s designed to pierce through a host’s skin and feed on their blood.

What are the early signs of Fleas?

Given the size of Fleas, you likely won’t see them until your dog is “scratching an itch”. To check your dog for fleas, use a fine-toothed comb and brush while looking for small brown dots moving about. Extensive flea bites can also lead to anaemia and hair loss, so it’s important to get hem early.

Fleas can also gravitate to a dog’s ears and tail, so be sure to check there too.

Keep an eye out for “Flea dirt”, the poo fleas leave on your pet’s fur. If you moisten Flea dirt on a tissue it will turn red, since it is mainly ingested blood.

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How do dogs and cats get Fleas?

As the “circus” name eludes to, Fleas are capable of jumping nearly a foot in the air vertically!

This makes it easy for fleas to get onto a dog, cats or humans. Fleas love warm temperatures too, so in summer they’re everywhere, in winter they’re searching for your pet’s warm fur!

After a single feeding, Fleas can survive for months without a meal, yikes.

Let’s get to it, preventing Fleas!

Like EVERYTHING, prevention is better than cure when it comes to Fleas, and we recommend total parasite protection (like FleaMail) because Fleas can carry other diseases. FleaMail uses oral protection, but there are other methods available.

Here are your options:

1. Oral Flea treatments for dogs.

Many Vets (including our FleaMail Vets) prefer oral treatments as, depending on the product, also protects against more parasites than Fleas like ticks, heartworm, roundworms, hookworms, and whipworms.

It should be noted, no single oral flea treatment for dogs can protect against all parasites. At FleaMail we use a combination of leading Australian parasite prevention products for comprehensive protection.

2. Topical Flea treatments for dogs.

Applied directly to your pet’s skin, normally between at the base of the neck or shoulder blades, topical flea and tick treatments are often referred to as “spot-ons”, a parasite prevention liquid that’s spread over your pet’s entire body and sweat glands.

Due to the chemicals used, the unknown protection and the possibility of children coming into contact with your pets, we do not recommend spot-ons at FleaMail.

3. Flea Collars for dogs.

Flea collars are exactly what they sound like, a collar with a concentrated chemical to repel and kill fleas, and some ticks.

A flea collars intends to disperse the active ingredients over the animal’s entire body, but as you can imagine, there can be a large concentration of chemicals on your pet’s neck, and the rest of their body exposed. For these reasons, the FleaMail Vets tend to avoid Flea and Tick collars.

4. Powders, Sprays and Shampoos.

Another approach for controlling Fleas are sprays, powders and shampoos. These were more popular 15-20 years ago before oral treatments caught up. Flea powders and sprays need to cover your pet’s entire body, even between their toes, but always avoid their eyes and mouth (very tricky as all pets lick).

We avoid Flea shampoos and powders, they’re just inconvenient and can be very toxic.

Looking for the right Flea treatment products?

We’ve prepared a list below, so you can do your research. If you’ve any questions, please just get in touch with the FleaMail team on our contact us page – and our Vets will get back to you!

1. FleaMail: www.fleamail.com.au
Comprehensive Flea, Tick & Worming by Aussie Vets.
The FleaMail protection plan includes:

– Monthly Simparica liver chew for fleas, ticks and mites.
– Monthly ValuHeart heartworming prevention.
– Every 3 months Cazitel liver tablet for intestinal, tape, lungworms and giardia.

2. Sentinel Spectrum: www.sentinelpet.com
NOTE: Does NOT cover Ticks and Mites.

3. Nexgard: www.nexgard.com.au
NOTE: Does NOT cover Mites and Tapeworms.

4. Bravecto: www.bravecto.com.au
NOTE: Does NOT cover Mites, Intestinal and Tapeworms.

5. Comfortis Plus: www.comfortis.com
NOTE: Does NOT cover Ticks, Mites and Tapeworms.

6. Advantix: www.advantagepetcare.com.au
NOTE: Does NOT cover Paralysis Ticks, Mites, Intestinal, Tape and Heartworms.

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Ticks, 7 Signs Your Dog Or Cat Has One.

Ticks, 7 Signs Your Dog Or Cat Has One.

Ticks are everywhere in Australia, and if you live anywhere near the coast, you’ll know all about our dreaded paralysis ticks too.

And while your dog or cat can get a tick at any time of year (they don’t die off or hibernate, see here), September starts official paralysis tick season in many areas of Australia. Come September, your pet should be fully protected against these nasties.

But what are ticks?

Ticks are oddly not related to fleas, but actually related to spiders (arachnids). Unlike spideres however, ticks require a “blood meal” from a host, most often an animal to grow and reproduce. Australian ticks have 4 stages in their life: Egg, larva, nymph and adult. At all stages except the egg stage, a tick must take a blood meal.

What makes paralysis ticks so dangerous?

When a paralysis tick bites or feeds, it injects a neurotoxin into the bloodstream of the animal. A paralysis tick’s toxin then causes paralysis of the animal’s muscles.

Because of this, paralysis ticks are the most deadly tick species in Australia, one bite can kill a large dog. There are two paralysis tick species in Australia, the Australian and the Tasmanian paralysis tick.

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How to spot a tick on your cat or dog.

1. Finding a tick in, or around your home.

If you find a tick on your carpets, curtains or anywhere else, your dog is likely the carrier and probably bought it in the house. Check your dog or cat straight away, using the next point.

2. Give you dog or cat a full rub down.

What you are looking for is a small bump, that could vary from the size of piece of sand to a small pebble. If you feel any abnormality, grab the torch and get as good of a look as you can. You can’t miss a tick when you find one.

3. Your dog acts strange.

After a tick bite, especially a paralysis tick, your dog may show symptoms of a fever, weakness or not wanting to play like normal, no appetite, different shivering (for small dogs who can do it for other reasons) and any unusual panting. If you notice any of these sign, please see a vet!

4. Excessively nipping or licking.

While ticks are often in places where dogs can’t reach easily, your dog may excessively nip or lick if it knows it has a tick. Pay close to attention if your dog keeps nipping one, or a few spots, and investigate with a flashlight immediately. Common areas are your dog’s ears, groin or under their front legs.

5. Unusual scabs or skin irretations.

A tick may have had it’s fill and left your dog already, however the signs are often still there. Many dogs excessively nip or lick at the bite site. If you notice this behaviour or find scabs on your dog’s body, make sure to conduct a closer examination.

6. Unusual head shaking.

Ticks can often crawl into a dog’s ear canal, as they like to hide in warm, damp places. If you notice your dog shaking their head more than normal, get out a flashlight and look very carefully for a tick. Note, the tick may be tiny at this stage as your dog will feel them in their ears more than other places.

7. Keep the tick for identification.

Once you’ve removed the tick (see video link below), keep the tick in a jar or zip lock bag so you can get it identified by your vet if need be. If you notice any signs in your pet, or are the least bit concerned, please contact your local vet straight away.

How to remove a tick.

Bush tick, paralysis tick or other species, here’s what you need to do if you find a tick on your pet. Firstly, try not to panic! When you panic your pet will too, and you may try to remove the tick the wrong way (if you’re in a rush), which can cause even more pain and complications.

Across is a video Dr Evan, FleaMail’s Vet recommends for remove a tick. AND REMEMBER, prevention like FleaMail is always better than the cure.

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